Why A Latvian Sauna Experience Is Worth Abandoning Your Comfort Zone

It was November, in Latvia, and it was cold. We didn’t notice it so much during the day while hiking in Guaja National Park. Stepping out of a warm sauna house, stark naked, into the frigid baltic air to experience the thrill of jumping into an ice-cold pond? That’s another story. Actually, it’s this one. I’m here to tell you about how, in the name of cultural immersion, I 1000% abandoned my comfort zone to experience a traditional Latvian Sauna.

Four Women. Three Hours. Two Latvian Men. One Amazing Sauna Experience.

The saga detailing four ladies, naked, spending three hours together in a bathhouse taking turns getting whipped and scrubbed by two Latvian men might sound steamy – in more ways than one. In truth, a colorful description is about as salacious as it gets. Tweak the narrative and it comes across as a more torturous tale. The reality? A Latvian sauna is a pure and reverential routine with invigorating results. A tinge of torture maybe, but worth it.

Unbeknownst to me (and through all fault of my own), I traveled halfway around the world to strip down, be beaten with aromatherapy-infused tree branches, and skinny dip in a freezing cold outdoor body of water. In the Baltics. In November. All of this with three other women I had known for less than 12 hours. We socialized between rounds of intense heat and icy cold while we casually ate from the charcuterie boards and sipped hot tea like there was nothing awkward going on at all. 

How Did I Find Myself in a Latvian Sauna With Strangers Anyway?

In November of 2019, I attended the WITS travel conference in Riga. The conference host, Magnetic Latvia, invited seven women, myself included, on a two-day media trip to experience parts of the country as they pertain to our interests and focus areas. The idea was that we would use our respective platforms to convey to our readers a few of the many things that make Latvia worthy of a spot on your European itinerary. 

Being treated to a traditional Latvian sauna at Spa Hotel Ezeri was listed on our whirlwind excursion. I probably wouldn’t have chosen this experience of my own accord. Realizing that makes me a little extra grateful for such an authentic glimpse into Latvian culture. You see, saunas in Latvia date back centuries and are, in essence, an aspect of cultural identity. The ritual, a spiritual heirloom of sorts, has been passed down through the generations honoring the holistic beliefs of their ancestors. Continuing the tradition of using the gifts provided by nature to care for oneself is a cherished one. 

In Latvia, You Sauna in the Buff

Arriving at Spa Hotel Ezeri after a day of hiking in Latvia, we were all looking forward to the prospect of relaxing in a sauna. I suppose we were all aware that a Latvian sauna would be different from whatever we were accustomed to; particularly, a North American sauna. As travelers who also work in the industry, we are well aware that spa rituals vary around the world. Still, we found ourselves in an unexpected conundrum.

Since we made it to the hotel a little later than anticipated, we were in a bit of a rush. The staff proceeds to quickly divide us into two groups. My group would go to the sauna first. “Do we have time to grab our bathing suits?” I’m not sure which of us asked the question first. I am sure it was meant to be rhetorical. Unfortunately, it got us nothing more than a funny look. You know, the expression that begs “Is that a real question?” It was. 

Initially, we thought we were just dealing with a time constraint. Or, maybe we just hoped that was the case. Either way, the mystified look on the attendant’s face lingered as we worked to persuade her that it would only take a second. Finally, the clearly confused, somewhat exasperated, very polite young woman says “If that’s what you’d like.” Her tone implied we were going about this all wrong and wasting time while we were at it. 

From Forest Bathing To An Actual Latvian Bathhouse 

Returning her look with one of our own, we all slowly began to realize our fate. It was becoming clear we were about to become far more intimate with each other than planned. There was a long pause as we all exchanged glances. Am I about to strip down with three women whom I barely know? Sure. We had just shared a wonderful day forest-bathing in Gauja National Park. Was I ready to spend the evening bathing together, quite literally, in a Latvian bathhouse? I couldn’t help thinking these relationships were moving a little too fast.

Looking to reach a point of acceptance, I asked the woman what a Latvian would do. What is the norm? What is the culture? The genuine desire to participate authentically was unanimous, as was the willingness to do so despite any awkward or self-conscious feelings. If this is what the Latvians do, we will do it. After all, we are here to immerse ourselves and embrace the culture. How else could we truly learn to appreciate a custom different from our own?

As expected, the answer was that one traditionally wears nothing. To do so is considered poor hygiene, a hindrance to the overall purpose of the Latvian sauna ritual. In other words, a bathing suit would be unhealthy and pointless. There we were. Four bold and badass female explorers who thrive on unconventional travel experiences worried about undressing, and we were on our way to do just that.

Preparing To “Take Sauna” 

Our changing room was a cute little hut with woodsy decor, a table and chairs, and a place to store personal items. We couldn’t help our amusement with the curtained space to the side. What was the point?

A Sauna Master met us there and briefly explained the next three hours. In a few words, he tells us to undress, store our belongings, and make our way to the adjacent hut to “take sauna.” The man pointed out four robes hanging on the wall. These were for us to use during our walk to the bathhouse. Once again, we found ourselves amused. Discreetly changing into the robes was a laughable attempt to take advantage of the last few moments in which we could maintain even a sliver of modesty.

Light-hearted moments continued to mark the evening. One thing we all had in common was the ability to turn an awkward situation into a comical experience. Committed to whatever the evening may hold, we walked together, wrapped in our robes, across part of the secluded countryside which separated the hut for changing and the hut for bathing. We leaned in for a group selfie. The photo would be our forever reminder of the four crazy women who found each other in Latvia and bonded over an experience unlike any other. As we approached the sauna entrance, our welcome by two men in short linen skirts and pointy spa hats sent us into yet another fit of adolescent giggles.

Escaping Life in a Simple Latvian Sauna House

The simplistic nature of the tiny hut in which the four of us would bond over the next few hours set a calming tone. The irony is that a Latvian sauna isn’t simple at all. An incredible amount of preparation and hard work goes into each session. In Latvia, the sauna master is also called a piertniek. Piertnieks must obtain certification by completing a year-long course to develop the skills necessary to deliver a wellness experience unique to each group or individual.

The small one-room cabin is adequately prepared but devoid of any possible distraction from the purpose – to escape life, detoxify the body, and revive the mind and spirit. It should come as no surprise that we had to leave our phones behind. A Latvian bathhouse is no place for technology.

Upon entering, the wooden sauna is across from the door. To my right are bundles of large twigs. They are mostly birch and oak trimmings from nearby trees before the cold air could steal their foliage. The dangling leaves lay soaking in an aromatic concoction made of native herbs and flowers picked by the pirtniek himself. To my left are chairs near a counter stocked with a variety of herbal teas and plates of fresh fruit and cheese. In the far corner, a small open shower for rinsing.

Throwing in the Towel. Together.

The first step of the evening is to disrobe and rinse off in the shower. Whether it was due to the spirit of camaraderie or collective instruction, we do this together. It was time to throw in the towel, quite literally, and get on with it. We were ready to experience the sauna, Latvia style.

Inhibitions lost somewhere in another dimension; we spent the next three hours getting scrubbed, brushed, and whipped with superbly fragrant salts and switches. The treatment would last for as long as our bodies could safely manage the heat, and then we would break. In between each round, three in total, the sauna master led us to the patio. Each time, a giant bucket of iced water poured over our heads. After each icy shock, we would come back in to hydrate with tea and fruits while allowing our bodies time to rest. As torturous as it sounds, the experience is undeniably fabulous.

The Sauna Process in Latvia

A Latvian sauna is a slow and thorough process. First, the pirtniek “brushes” you with the bundles of leaves soaked in herbs and petals. Except, the foliage never really touched my skin. Instead, the pirtniek uses the leaves to move the aromatic hot air along my body in waves. Next was a salt scrub. The second session is a head-to-toe exfoliation. Using salt, the sauna master massages along my energy lines to balance the flow of energy and alleviate pain. For the final session, he uses the bundles of leaves once again to gently whip the entire body into an enhanced state of relaxation and improved circulation. 

The grand finale is yet another shock. Technically, we were told. It was right there in the itinerary. It was obvious that none of us thought much of it when reading that our spa experience would end with a swim in the pond. If I’m being entirely honest, it’s possible we only paid mind to the main points. Perhaps we thought we could skip that bit. I don’t know. Regardless, fully submerging ourselves post intense three-hour heat sesh was non-negotiable.

A Cold Pond and a Straw Bed

One at a time, we squealed our way down the path to our icy baptism. The sauna master was kind enough to hold a hand as we each performed a barefoot little tip-toe dance through the dark. The short walk from the warm and toasty hut where I had become comfortably exposed to the pond deck seemed eternal.

“All the way under,” he says. A proper plunge is essential for safely and, ironically, comfortably recovering. The icy water jump starts blood flow. Not submerging entirely could leave me with a pounding headache. I climbed down the ladder, dunked myself completely, and waited for the sauna master to tell me when I could get out. Exiting the water was equally as hard as entering, but at least I had a warm bed made of straw and cushy blankets waiting for me. On the porch but, nonetheless.

Cocooned in a Weightless World

I spent the last moments of my Latvian sauna experience blissfully cocooned in pillowy warmth. The large sack of straw, which I now knew was a bed, was akin to a bean bag and surprisingly cozy. Beneath the weight of countless blankets, the burdens and stress of life became weightless. After losing four family members that year, the mental load was intense. For the first time in a long time, my mind was clear. To say that gratitude for the moment overwhelmed me would be an understatement.

As I lay swaddled in woolen blankets on a little porch in the quiet countryside of Latvia, clarity invited reflection. It’s so easy to forget that the best experiences are often the ones we are at least a little afraid of pursuing. So many things can hold us back – a fear of heights, preconceived notions of how others view us, and a plethora of other insecurities. However, on the other side of fear and insecurity, there is almost always something beautiful and memorable.
Socializing among strangers au naturel was never on my bucket list. Honestly, I probably would have chickened out if I fully understood what I was getting myself into. And I’m so glad I didn’t because, now, a traditional Latvian sauna ranks high on my list of top travel experiences. In fact, it is an experience that I look forward to signing up for all over again.

The sauna in Latvia was worth abandoning my comfort zones for many reasons. Best of all and perhaps most importantly, it reminded me that the best thing you can do for yourself on your next vacation is to leave your comfort zone behind.